Nirmal Purja and the 14 peaks

Sameer Karkee
4 min readDec 29, 2021

I like to compare Nirmal ‘Nims’ purjas’ feat of 14 peaks in 6 months with Hercules 10 labors. It’s really a stuff of legends.

Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja MBE was initially a British Special forces officer, and a Gurkha before he became the legendary mountaineer that he is today.

He was born with some of the best set of genetics that made his physiology almost superhuman when it comes to not just mountaineering, but any long endurance challenges.

Starting from a humble and poor background in a remote village in Nepal, Nims Purja went on to become a Gurkha, and then was also selected in the British Special forces. Passing every single test, every challenge thrown at him, felt like he was at the top of the world!

He has said that initially he felt great confidence in himself and thought highly of himself.. There is nothing he couldn’t do or conquer.

But one day in 2017 when he gave a shot at mountaineering, he got his first reality check. He felt that nature is a completely different beast altogether. Nature is no joke. His massive ego was shaken that day, he felt small.

And so began genesis of the greatest mountaineering feat in the history of human kind.

He conceived of- Project Possible. The insane idea of climbing 14 eight thousanders in 7 months!!!

Note- the previous world record was 7 years.

The mountains were big, but so were his dreams, the Mountains were tough and stubborn, but so was his spirit.

I like how he started out with Annapurna, one of the deadliest 8 thousander, with a kill rate of 3:1. For every 3 mountaineer , 1 dies.

It gives you this sense of going to battle, and you’re going to fight something pretty mean. — Don Bowie, High altitude mountaineer

Done!

19 days later-
Climbs Dhaulagiri in 21 hours.

When asked, why do you want to climb the high peaks people say- for fun. I disagree with them. It’s not fun. It’s a place where you have to learn to cope with pain. — Reinhold Messner, Legendary mountaineer

3 days later-

Kanchenjunga.

Then comes the strangest part.

His next goal , was Mount Everest. Lhotse and Makalu, both 8thousanders, were nearby.

Climbs all 3 of them. Guess how long it took him. 22 days? 10 days? 5 days?

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48 hours!

Climbs a bunch of other mountains from Pakistan.

But then, comes the turn of K2. The deadliest mountain of them all.

I like to see the faces of mountaineers when they see the first glimpse of K2. You can see that they are thinking ‘this is a bad idea- Dan Bowie

K2 also became popularly known as the Savage Mountain after George Bell — a climber on the 1953 American expedition — told reporters,

“It’s a savage mountain that tries to kill you.

Right, so K2 is the meanest of them all. You can hear the most evil boss music when you see K2.

And what does Nims do, as if climbing K2 itself is not impressive in itself?

Decides to climb K2 in the winter season.

He goes to the camp and encounters some mountaineers who were very afraid and depressed as they failed to make the ascent. People would think, if you climb the mountain tomorrow, then your chances of survival is 50–50.

Nims comes along and throws a wild party to cheer them up.

And climbs K2 the next day.

Most of us forget that we are approaching death from the day we are born. Life is absurd. But you can fill it with joy, with enthusiasm and make it meaningful. — Reinhold Messner

Broad peak, is defeated. Mansalu and Cho-oyu are conquered as well.

The chinese goverment had closed Shishapangma for climbing, even for Nims himself.

But even then he didn’t gave up, and kept pushing his goal through social medias and other channels, so China made an exception.

All the 14 peaks were climbed, and history was made. He achieved his goal a month earlier than previously planned.

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Sameer Karkee

Amateur writer. Studying Medicine. Interested in philosophy, Science and any other fascinating idea that I come across. Believer of growth mindset.